Fuel Tank

While the tank is out getting cleaned, I started the preliminary work on the gas lines. Basically I have to run all new line from the tank to the carbs. Most of the line will be coming from John in the form of Push Lock hose designed for high pressure fuel situations. I didn't want to use steel line as there would be a lot of custom bending and compression fittings involved like Rick did on Aaron's car. It looks great but running high pressure hose works just as well and is a lot easier to work with. The hose and fittings that John provides is rated at 250 PSI and is what he uses when he does installations. The TBI conversion requires a low pressure return line from the fuel pressure regulator, so I'll just be re-using my existing steel fuel line for that......I mean it's all just sitting there doing nothing at this point!

I've always had a slight gas smell in my car but I could never find its source or even see any evidence of a leak. When I pulled the tank there was a sponge-like donut that sat on the Gas Tank Outlet hole in the picture above. The tank rested on it and the gas line passed through it.....and it reeked of gas! My guess is there must have been a tiny, infrequent leak at the compression fitting that worked its way to this donut causing the smell. After a thorough soaking and cleaning, it now smells like Purple Muscle now.

Monday I'll drop off the fittings I need soldered in to the gas tank and then it's wait for the tank to be done and John's kit to arrive.

December 1st and the weather continues to be unseasonably warm with temperatures in the high 50's to low 60's. I picked up the gas tank today and for $50 it was acid dipped, cleaned, tested and 2 fittings soldered in place. Because the tank is steel and the fittings are brass, the 2 "welding" options are: brazing and soldering. Soldering was used because he believes it gives a better seal in a liquid environment.

Tank Outlet Fitting	Fuel Return Fitting

For me, one of the "challenges" is finding the right fittings and sized to use in a liquid environment. What made this a lot easier was Rick's knowledge of what is the best fitting to use, coupled with his ownership of a NAPA store or two. So basically Rick gave me the part number and I went and bought it at my local NAPA store.

In hindsight I would have located the tank return fitting in one of two other locations. The spot I choose requires an elbow or 90 degree fitting to allow for hose clearance. I learned that from inside the car there's lots of room above the tank but the rear deck has a slight slope which limits clearance on trunk side.......where I put the fitting.

I used a 90 degree elbow and a straight barb for the return line

I took Rick's expensive ($35) suggestion and sprung for the NAPA fuel shut off valve. I know there are cheaper alternatives but at this point.................. :-) The fuel flow from the tank is gravity fed to the pump so I just screwed the 1/4 NPT male fitting on the shut off valve directly into the tank fitting. On the other side of the shut off is a 1/4" NPT Male straight barb with a short section of 3/8" hose that connects to the filter. It's a tight fit for the fuel shut off valve relative to the frame and tank so I have to remove its handle and reverse it to get enough clearance. When it's in the open position, you want the "arrow" end of the handle pointing at the tank. It was also easier to screw this in with the tank leaning away from it's vertically mounted position. I poured about 1/2 gallon of gas into the tank and found no leaks! Yippee............ and a quick turn of the valve handle got the gas flowing...........on to the garage floor! Damn hose jumped out of the container. Well, at least the valve works, I wanted to mount the filter in a horizontal postion directly before the pump but space was at a premium so I moved it to a vertical position right after the shut off valve.

Shut Off Valve All Mounted	Fuel Filter Connected

Next up is the fuel pump......more