Trailing Arm Repair













Trailing Arm Jig - The Set Up

So now that you know what's in the kit, it's time to put it to good use. The first thing I did was remove the brakes from the TA without the need to drain the brake fluid. Basically I unhooked the E-Brake and then loosened the brake line from where it attaches to the TA. This gave me enough slack in the brake line to remove the brake back plate from the TA and rest it on the hub.
Remove the E-Brake and then the Brake Line from the TA
This lets you rest the brakes on top of the TA without losing any brake fluid.

Next up was a test fit to make sure things lined up before I started drilling holes in my perfectly good TAs. Rick machined everything to very very tight tolerances..............probably tighter than Triumph engineered anything it does fit when put on properly. You really have to line it all up and then slowly work it on. A few times used a block of wood to tap it into place. Once I was sure it fit, I backed the first three studs out using the old double nut trick.

A very tight but perfect fit
Tighten two nuts against each other and you can back the stud out. Just take out the
first three you want to drill & tap. You need the other three to lock the jig in place.
The TA end of the stud has the shorter thread length.

Now you need to clean up the face of the TA so that the jig lies nice and flat against the TA. If it doesn't lie flat, you'll get crooked holes! I used a wire wheel on my drill which was more then sufficient. Once you put the jig over the 3 remaining studs, lock it down with washers and nuts.

A wire brush got the face nice and clean
Three washers & three nuts....and one stud?? The stud is the KeenSert I did by hand
last year. Doing that one by hand was enough to convince me NOT to try and do all
12 by hand. There's no way to keep it all square by hand.

Now it's finally time to drill and tap.